If there’s a better place to do people and street photography than Cuba, I’ve yet to find it. Walking out of the airport in Havana is like traveling back in time. It’s a poor country, with little money for new things so the folks there make do with whatever they’ve got for as long as they can. That by itself, of course, can make for good photos. But add in the friendly people, warm weather and great guide, and you’ve got all the ingredients necessary for a very rewarding photography trip.
Getting to Cuba from the U.S. is slightly more complicated than most international travel, since our country continues to enforce sanctions against this small neighboring island. To be permitted to travel from here to there, you need to qualify under one of a few different categories. “In Support of the Cuban People” is the most common for our type of trip, and means your lodging and meals must be done through privately-owned homes and restaurants, not the larger, fancier government-owned ones. All of the places we stayed were clean and comfortable, the hosts gracious and welcoming. The food ranged from acceptable to great, the biggest challenge being what was available and in-season. They can’t afford to import much, so the menus were generally, “here’s what we have today.” But despite occasional challenges, it’s a fascinating place to visit, especially for a photographer.
I’ve recently returned from leading another trip there, and I hope that the photos and stories below help give you a sense of what it’s like to visit. (If you’re interested in going to Cuba with me, drop me a note. There’s a good chance I’ll make the trip again in 2025)
If you want to learn how Cuba’s famous cigars are grown and made, you need to travel west from Havana to Vinales. We visited a small family farm there to see the process in action, as well as trying them along with locally produced rum. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 500, 1/250 at f/2 in Matrix metering, -0.3 EV, Nikkor Z 40mm f/2 lens.
On our drive from Havana to Vinales, one of the group noticed an outdoor nail salon. So on the way back we stopped, met the lady running it and made some photos. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 400, 1/250 at f/5 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 24mm.
The La Necropolis de Cristobal Colon (cemetery) is filled with monuments and tombs dating back to the late 1800s, and a great way to spend a morning in Havana. I always bring two cameras on trips, as insurance in case one should fail. In this case I carried a Nikon Z 6 that had been converted to full spectrum so I could also use it for infrared photography. In Cuba I used it almost exclusively to create IR black and white photos. Nikon Z 6, Aperture Priority, Preset white balance, ISO 200, 1/250 at f/10 in Matrix metering, +2.3 EV, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S lens at 14mm.
Alejandro, our guide, took us on a walking tour of Old Havana, but less of the touristy section and more of where people actually live. This man was visiting a friend with his pet song bird. Nikon Z 6 converted to full spectrum, Aperture Priority, Preset white balance, ISO 100, 1/320 at f/9 in Matrix metering, +1.7 EV, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S lens at 14mm.
An old fort overlooks the entrance to Havana Bay, and we went up there one afternoon for overviews of the city. As we were parking, I noticed this couple about to have wedding photos taken. I asked our guide to see if the couple and their photographer would mind if we stayed back and also took pictures. They were happy to let us do that. With a storm approaching, I chose to get my camera low and shoot wide, to bring the dramatic sky into the scene. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 200, 1/640 at f/6.3 in Matrix metering, +0.7 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 26mm.
As we wandered the area of Havana near the Malecon, waiting for sunset, we met a lady feeding the area cats. We saw many examples of how Cubans love their pets, and even go to the trouble to both feed and clean up after strays. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 800, 1/60 at f/5 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 24mm.
Our last night in Havana we went to the Buena Vista Social Club for dinner and a show. It features many of Cuba’s older famous singers, and was a fun evening for all of us. If you ever run into anyone from my group, they’ll be happy to tell you how I got mugged by one of the performers… Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Auto white balance, ISO 6400, 1/200 at f/4 in Matrix metering, -0.7 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 120mm.
Fursterlandia is a neighborhood in Havana that a local artist spent years turning into an art project. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 64, 1/200 at f/9 in Matrix metering, -1.3 EV, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S lens at 14mm.
A family passes through Fursterlandia. Bicycles, scooters and horse-drawn carts are common, since cars are expensive and gas and diesel hard to find. Occasionally, our guide and drivers had to spend hours at the end of the day (after dropping us off) looking for a place with fuel so we could continue the trip. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 160, 1/800 at f/8 in Matrix metering, -0.3 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 24mm. Photo copyright Reed Hoffmann.
The group agreed that some of our best photos came from things we simply came across while driving around the country. Here, we were on our way to visit a backyard mechanic when we found these teenage boys leaping off the bridge we passed over. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 640, 1/1000 at f/9 in Matrix metering, -0.7 EV, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S lens at 14mm.
On my first two trips to Cuba in February of 2020, we passed through the small city of Matanzas, which is where our guide and drivers are from. Explaining that we wanted to see how Cubans lived and worked, they came up with a number of great opportunities for us. So on this trip I asked that we stay in Matanzas two nights, to give us more time there. This backyard (literally) mechanic was where we spent some of that time. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 400, 1/4000 at f/2 in Matrix metering, -1.3 EV, Nikkor Z 40mm f/2 lens.
I always remind my students to look for details, like this air freshener inside one of the cars in the mechanic’s yard. The Cubans are quick to tell you they like Americans and wish the travel and trade restrictions could be lifted. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 640, 1/640 at f/5.6 in Matrix metering, -1.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 70mm.
Here the mechanic is repairing a transmission by using parts from a different car, and needed to grind some of them down to make it work. While taking pictures it’s always important to ask yourself, “Is there something different I can do here?” In this case, I suggested folks try using a slow shutter speed to make the sparks more visible. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 160, 1/15 at f/9 in Matrix metering, -1.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 120mm.
We visited the farm belonging to one of our drivers’ family in Matanzas, and his brother Joel gave us a tour. Here he’s showing us how he braids garlic, and later would chop open coconuts so we could all taste fresh coconut juice. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 320, 1/640 at f/5 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 40mm.
There’s a river walk in Matanzas, which we explored one morning on our way to an art gallery. While doing that, we met some men net fishing in the river, and watched as they worked along the shoreline. Nikon Z 6 converted to full spectrum, Aperture Priority, Preset white balance, ISO 160, 1/1000 at f/6.3 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S lens at 14mm.
Occasionally, I’d give people free time (45-90 minutes) in an area so they could explore it themselves. This was one of those times, around noon in Matanzas, near the main square. In those situations I’ll often look for a good scene, and wait for something interesting to happen. That’s what I did here. I liked the vendor’s tent and the wall behind it, so just waited for a customer. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 400, 1/1600 at f/5.6 in Matrix metering, -0.7 EV, Nikkor VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E lens at 220mm.
Also near that same square, two of our group said they’d found a local chess club. So the rest of us went there and asked if we could (quietly) take some photos. One of the things I love about doing photography as a group is how we often find different things, feed off of each other’s energy and share ideas. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 250, 1/100 at f/4 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 51mm.
Our guide had also found a local barbershop where we were welcome to stop by and take pictures. Nikon Z 6, Aperture Priority, Preset white balance, ISO 1250, 1/125 at f/5 in Matrix metering, +0.7 EV, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S lens at 15mm.
Cubans are in need of practically everything, so most of us brought an extra piece of luggage with shoes, clothes toiletries and more. We also brought along books, pencils, crayons and toys to drop off at the orphanage in Matanzas. When we arrived, I heard noise above us and discovered three red-bellied woodpeckers. Two were fighting over a nest in a dead tree as a third looked on. So of course, we photographed them for a while before visiting the orphanage. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 500, 1/2500 at f/7.1 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E lens at 300mm.
Our guide had also arranged for us to visit a kids’ boxing program in Matanzas. With the late-day sun creating strong shadows, I found a higher viewpoint in the courtyard to take advantage of that. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 100, 1/3200 at f/6.3 in Matrix metering, -2.3 EV, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S lens at 14mm.
After the outdoor workouts, we headed to an indoor gym to shoot portraits of some of the boys and the coach. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 1600, 1/50 at f/5 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 24mm.
One of our group decided it would be fun to re-create the famous Ali vs Liston photo with a young boxer. Nikon Z 6 converted to full spectrum, Aperture Priority, Preset white balance, ISO 1000, 1/160 at f/4.5 in Matrix metering, +0.7 EV, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S lens at 15mm.
Our last stop in Matanzas was at the local ballfields, which are mostly sand, dirt and scrub grass. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 400, 1/320 at f/8 in Matrix metering, +0.3 EV, Nikkor VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E lens at 270mm.
Baseball is incredibly popular there, and we saw little kids that fielded, threw and hit like high schoolers here in the U.S. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 250, 1/800 at f/8 in Matrix metering, +0.3 EV, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S lens at 19mm.
They may be small, but the play is pretty serious. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 500, 1/1600 at f/5.6 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E lens at 300mm.
One of our group pointed out these guys playing dominoes behind the ballfields. She had gone over to photograph them and they invited her to join in a game. Note that their table is without legs, resting on their knees. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 200, 1/100 at f/7.1 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E lens at 250mm.
The morning we left Matanzas I woke early and decided to walk out to the bay for sunrise. I found a few people fishing in that pre-dawn light, and this man wading with a net. While the government provides each household with some basics, like rice, flour and sugar, most people need to supplement their diet any way they can. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 1250, 1/250 at f/4 in Matrix metering, -0.7 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 110mm.
Arriving at the house where we’d spend the night in Trinidad, we found some boys playing soccer on the cobblestone street out front. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 500, 1/500 at f/5 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 30mm.
Walking home after dinner that night, we were treated to a light show. It probably came from one of the bars, as Trinidad is a very popular destination for tourists. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Auto white balance, ISO 4000, 1/8 at f/4 in Matrix metering, -2.3 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 39mm.
The next morning we took a walking tour of Trinidad, and I chose to make a “false-color” infrared photo of the main square. Nikon Z 6 converted to infrared, Aperture Priority, Preset white balance, ISO 100, 1/80 at f/11 in Matrix metering, +2.3 EV, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S lens at 15mm.
A young girl watches a street band perform in Trinidad. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 250, 1/800 at f/5 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 68mm.
We met this man on that morning walk through Trinidad. He was trying to get his 1950s era car running because some people had stolen his horse. Rumor was that they had eaten it. So without that horse to pull his cart, he needed another way to haul things for work. We were constantly amazed at how upbeat and friendly people were, despite the difficulties they encounter on a daily basis. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 125, 1/160 at f/4.5 in Matrix metering, +1.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 24mm.
Just a normal street scene in Cuba, with a horse cart delivering construction materials. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 160, 1/2000 at f/4.5 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 120mm.
In Cinefuiegos, near sunset, we walked down to the pier to see if anyone was fishing. The water was too rough for that, but not too rough for some young men to go swimming. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 1600, 1/1600 at f/5 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 45mm.
This is the other reason we were at the waterfront that evening: Cuba was playing the U.S. in the World Baseball Classic, and we’d heard people were going to gather to see the game. There was a small projector set up to show the game on the wall of an old warehouse, but it wasn’t powerful enough to see anything until well past sunset. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, 6330K, ISO 3200, 1/40 at f/5.6 in Matrix metering, -1.0 EV, Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S lens at 15mm.
Our first outing on our last day was to a crocodile sanctuary. The Cuban species is unique to the island. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 1000, 1/250 at f/5.6 in Matrix metering, -0.3 EV, Nikkor VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E lens at 250mm.
The Zunzuncito, or “bee hummingbird,” is the smallest bird in the world and native to Cuba. After the crocodiles, we visited a man who’s been feeding these tiny hummingbirds in his backyard for decades. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 800, 1/320 at f/8 in Matrix metering, +0.7 EV, Nikkor VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E lens at 210mm.
I shot hundreds of frames to make sure I got at least a few good ones of this tiny bird. Fortunately they’re fairly used to people so we could get within five or six feet of them. And having a camera with fast autofocus and frame rate helped too! Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 1000, 1/500 at f/5.6 in Matrix metering, +0.3 EV, Nikkor VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E lens at 270mm.
After a while I started to wonder what I could do differently photographing these birds, and this is what I came up with. Changing my angle to put them (this time a ruby-throated hummingbird) against the overcast sky, to create a silhouette. I also changed my camera settings to get an extremely high shutter speed – 1/16,000 to be exact – which then froze their wings in flight. Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 1600, 1/16,000 at f/8 in Matrix metering, +0.3 EV, Nikkor VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E lens at 195mm.
Finally, our entire group, including the guide, Alejandro (in white shirt at back left) and our two drivers, Oscar (back right) and Lazaro (behind the wheel). Our transportation was this 1956 Chevrolet Bel Air and a 2002 Sprinter van. While great guides, locations and itinerary are the keys to a good photo trip, having a group that gets along well and can roll with the punches is the most important. And I couldn’t have asked for a better group than these eight! Nikon Z 9, Aperture Priority, Natural Auto white balance, ISO 250, 1/640 at f/7.1 in Matrix metering, 0.0 EV, Nikkor Z 24-120mm f/4 S lens at 24mm.
(If you like this story, please share it with your friends and let them know about the links on photography that I post on my business Facebook page. I’m also on Instagram and Twitter, @reedhoffmann. And if you’re curious about the workshops I teach, you can find them here. And, you can subscribe to this blog on my home page.)
Thank you for sharing. Question – did you have to obtain a special journalistic visa and did you have any issues with your equipment? I’m debating about bringing my Sony a1 with some GM lenses. Not sure if I will have any issues with immigration. Thanks!
We went under the category “In Support of the Cuban People,” which means we stay in private residences and eat at small, locally-owned places. No issues bringing a reasonable amount of gear in.
Thank you so much for posting, Reed. Nice to relive our 2020 trip a bit, especially I think that the COVID problems right afterwards suppressed so many of my good memories! And there’s so much more to see there! I would recommend to anyone who is interested in people!
Yes, fascinating country and wonderful people. Was a pleasure to return, glad you enjoyed reliving some of those memories.
Reed, Great story and images! The IR was spectacular!
Reed,
You are correct, there is no better place to do street and people photography than Cuba. I have been to Cuba 6 times and still find it fascinating. Perhaps my next trip to this beautiful island will be with you to get Hoffmann perspective. I agree with Nancy, we need to shake hands and end the embargo. The Cuban people love the U. S.
Mel Cohen DDS
Reed,
Your images and accompanying descriptions were terrific. Every time I see photos from Cuba I wish our countries would shake hands.